Homemade Wind Turbine Blade Carving Tutorial

You can make the jigs to guide the chainsaw however you wish. You will need a good ruler, bandsaw or jigsaw, and a good power sander. I got my lumber from Homedepot, but you can go to any lumber yard or mill.

If you want deep roots you will need 2x4 or 2x6s. If you want to go really deep I would go with 2x8s or 2x10s. Of course this will get expensive.

You will need two sets of guides: one for the windward side, and the other for the leeward side. The guide goes from tip to root. The side facing the wind will have one guide that is flat for the leading edge. The trailing edge will drop as one goes towards the root. This can be a linear drop or a complex curve. The final board that is cut will have a maximum thickness specification at 1/3 the distance from the leading edge. Therefore, your leading edge guide will need to curve to match this thickness from tip to root. The trailing edge will need to add this thickness to whatever the drop was at this station.

I will demonstrate with the windward side.

The leading edge is flat. The chainsaw will just go across. On the blade calculator let's say it has for a given station a drop of 0.5". At this distance on the 2x6 you need to have the board cut down in height be 0.5". Closer to the root the drop is 2.4". You need to have the 2x6 cut down to 2.4". Mark all the drops, connect them with a curve and use a bandsaw or jigsaw to cut this out. Sand the surface smooth so the chainsaw sleds slide smoothly.

Remember, when you cut the other side you need to flip the board upside down. Let's say we dropped 1/4" at the tip and we are using a 2x6 (5.5" width for board). The calculator says the thickness should be 1/2". This means from the top of the 2x6 we need to mark a spot down

5 1/2" - (1/4" + 1/2")

We also need to mark the spot on the other guide to track the board thickness.

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